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PC Pitstop began in with an emphasis on computer diagnostics and maintenance. Power Consumption 80W. Series Creature. Subwoofer Specifications Subwoofer Transducers 9. Speaker Specifications Satellite Depth mm Dimensions Subwoofer Height in 9. Subwoofer Height mm Subwoofer Width in 9.
Satellite Height mm Satellite Depth in 3. Subwoofer Width mm Satellite Width in 3. Subwoofer Depth in 9. Satellite Width mm Subwoofer Depth mm Satellite Speaker Specifications Satellite Depth mm What's in the box? Owners Manual Multilingual 2 MB. No wires were soldered to the input board yet. I was planning to do this last, once all the woodworking jobs were done.
This wasn't something I planned on doing, but I had to. When I placed the drivers inside the openings at the front, they were sticking out a bit too much. This was a problem as the piece of wood that was supposed to cover them will be shown in a bit wasn't going to fit.
The solution was to cut recesses for the speaker drivers. First, I marked the area covered by every driver with a pencil.
I had to hold the pencil vertically for this step to get accurate markings. Then I used a routing attachment for my Dremel tool and made several passes until the recesses were done. The speaker drivers were now laying flush with the front piece. To make the speaker look good, I wanted to make a cover of sorts for the front so that I could hide the plywood and the uglier bits of the speakers.
I started by laminating two pieces of American white oak wood. They were 6mm thick and measured 10 by 45 centimeters. I bought the pieces several months ago on Etsy from a store called AlwaysHobbies and I was happy that I was finally going to use them in a project.
Once the glue was dry, I cut the oak piece to size and sanded down its faces to eliminate the marking left by the glue up. Then I made openings for the speaker drivers using the same technique I described earlier. I spent a lot of time sanding the edges of the openings to make them smooth and uniform.
Since the screws for the small speakers were still sticking out somewhat, I decided to carve small indents on the back side of the oak piece. To know where I had to carve, I dropped a small drop of nail polish on the tip of each screw, then pressed the piece against them so that the polish would leave a mark.
It worked perfectly! Finally, I took the piece out and gave it a nice coat of spray lacquer. If the grain raises, give the piece hours to dry completely, sand it lightly, and apply another coat of lacquer. For the top and sides of my speaker, I chose to use mahogany wood panels. They were darker in color, which I expected to create a nice contrast with the lighter oak piece in front. The mahogany wood panels were also bought online from AlwaysHobbies.
I cut them to size and glued them flush with the top and front of my speaker. These two wood panels were the most expensive component of the entire build, but they looked so much better than bare plywood! Once the top and side pieces were glued in place, I sanded them finely and thoroughly, then rounded the edges for a nicer look and feel.
Using a few damp paper towels, I wiped all the fine wood dust that had accumulated on their surface. This makes the finish look better.
Before applying the lacquer, however, I glued the two panels with the buttons and inputs to the back. I wasn't too worried about getting a bit of spray lacquer over them, though I did put a paper towel in the bass reflex port so that nothing would go in.
I also covered the openings for the speakers in the front with paper. Next, I gently applied multiple coats of spray lacquer to the top and sides. I applied just two light coats to the back. Picture 2 and 3 show the speaker before and after the application of finish. Time to bring out the soldering iron again. With nearly all wood pieces in place, I now had to complete all the wiring before sealing the speaker.
First, I drilled the necessary holes for the wires to pass through. I wish I had planned ahead, as drilling these holes with my tiny drill was a long and tedious task. With the holes drilled, I hooked up the speakers, input wires and power cables to the correct boards. I used 2-component adhesive to hermetically seal the holes again so that no air would pass through.
For the tone controls, I used JBL's original caps. There was nothing fancy about the bottom that I made. It was simply a piece of plywood cut exactly to size. Note that the inner support pieces are recessed by 1 centimeter relative to the outer walls — exactly the thickness of the bottom piece. I drilled pilot holes in the four corners of the bottom piece and then secured it in place with screws.
And that's how this project came together! It was long, tiring, and cost me several sleepless nights as I was trying to catch the deadline for Instructables' Audio Contest, but I think the effort was worth it. If I had more time, I would have probably applied a few more coats of finish, but the speaker does look good even as it is.
I may also open it back up and fine-tune the sound using some acoustic dampening material to reduce some of the boominess.
But overall, I'm pretty happy with how the speaker turned out, and I hope that you learned something new! If you liked this project or if you think that I could have executed something better, I'd appreciate it if you let me know in the comments!
Good day, So the voltage input of jbl creature II is 18v ac then it will become DC volts after passing to 4 diodes rectifier, my question is what is the value of DC power after passing to rectifier? Woodworking tip for future reference, your jigsaw is made for making curved cuts as for your enclosure holes.
The sanding drums for your Dremel tool will help clean up nicely to the line. Interesting project! Also, you can buy really nice, fancy wood veneers for much less than the cost of sheathing your project with solid wood panels. These are thin sheets usually only mm thick of real wood that are glued on and trimmed to fit usually with a knife, saw or router. Reply 3 years ago. Thanks for the tips! I still have a lot to learn : The reason why I chose panels over veneer was that I wanted to cover the frames of the drivers and the screws holding them in place.
But yeah, veneer is pretty awesome. I really enjoyed this instructable; it shows remarkable ingenuity in fixing and repurposing broken electronics, which is always a good thing when possible. I was really impressed with the woodworking skills shown; you obviously have a knack and love for it, given the dedication to the project. I loved the use of buttons for the touch controls, that was very innovative and gives it a personal feel.
Alternatives for those wanting to replicate this might be coins, brass thumbtacks, copper roofing nails, etc; all would look just as fantastic. Thanks for posting this! An 8 ohm speaker compared to a 4 ohm speaker both with the same efficiency, etc will sound quieter with the volume control at the same level as the power output is directly proportional to the impedance.
How satisfied are you with this reply? Thanks for your feedback, it helps us improve the site. How satisfied are you with this response? Thanks for your feedback. Thanks for your suggestions Praseetha K Nair There are no error messages If the Ipad or Samsung phone are on bluetooth recognises the devices. But not the speaker. Both the Ipad a Samsung can connect to the speaker If you turn off the Ipad and Samsung bluetooth recognises no devices Metod 1: I dont think the sound card would stop Bluetooth recognising a bluetooth device, as I can hook the speaker up with a cable to the earphone plug and it works ok.
But I will try disabling the sound card to see if that makes a difference I will try Hardware troubleshooter this afternoon NZ time as well.
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